The New Patek Philippe Large Calatrava Watch

Patek Philippe has added the Calatrava Ref. 5196 Grande Classique to its famous family of horological masterpieces. The eye-catching 37 millimeter diameter case features a smooth, polished bezel.

The Calatrava has been frequently modified for the past 70 years but it always kept its pleasant good looks and respectworthy reliability. Now, by this latest reissue, Patek Philippe pays tribute to the first Calatrava that was invented in 1932. The first Calatrava's case was inspired by the beliefs of the celebrated German Bauhaus school of architecture and art that states form ought to follow function.

As for the wristwatch, the succession of round movements that begin with the rotating of the winding crown, the movements of the balance and wheel trains, and the circular path of the hour and minute hands undoubtedly need a round form. In view of the fact that the function of a timekeeper is to show time, the Bauhaus school rejected unnecessary ornamentations and other details that could distract from the hands. As a matter of fact, the art of neglecting unnecessary details is the best-known characteristic of this practical attitude - a style so masterfully used in the 1932 Calatrava that it influences the design of watches even these days.

Patek Philippe continues to act by the principles of Bauhaus school with the Calatrava Grande Classique Ref. 5196. Looking at the face you are not distracted by anything from the constant advancement of the watch's hands. The second hand moves in a reasonably diminished seconds' subdial located at the 6 o'clock position as in bustling everyday city life the hours and minutes are given emphasis to. This practical timekeeper has an enlarged and streamlined watchcase featuring 37 millimeter diameter making the watch that looks awfully beautiful on your wrist.

The wide bezel is mirror polished. The case is waterproof to 25 meters (82 feet) owing to a solid snap back. The most recent Calatrava (Ref. 5196) is manufactured in 3 gold versions and 1 in platinum. The versions in 18-karat white, rose, and yellow gold feature a somewhat domed and satiny face beautified by dauphine hands made out of gold matching the watchcase. The hour markings are made from gold and the minute markings with lines made from miniature golden pearls.

The latest Calatrava in platinum has a slightly different design. It has a silvery dial with Breguet digits made from white gold. Its style jogs your memory about the Calatrava 570 produced in the 1940s. These days a major place is occupied by the timepiece in the large collection of the Patek Philippe Museum. Framed by a chrome band the center of the dial is diamond-polished. The recessed subsidiary face, which is decorated with black Breguet numerals and a feuille hand, is at the 6 o'clock position.

The white gold hour and minute hands are feuille as well. Another difference between this platinum watch and its white gold double is the discreet diamond set between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position. Every version has a hand-sewn alligator band - brown for the yellow and rose gold cases and black for the white gold and platinum versions. The buckles are made out of the identical expensive metals as the cases.

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